Mutable Pursuits

A Single Man

2009-09-15T10:18:00.008-04:00

Tom Ford's first movie, A Single Man. The movie explores the parts mid century American society that run contrary to the sterile and idealized American Dream much like Mad Men and the novel/movie Revolutionary Road. Like Revolutionary Road it too is based on on a novel; written in 1964 by Christopher Isherwood a gay Englishman like the stories protagonist. Although Ford is not doing the costume design, I'm sure the clothing will still be great.

A Single Man (novel) - Wikipedia
A Single Man (movie) - IMDB
Christopher Isherwood - Wikipedia

Mongolian wool vest

2009-08-25T10:15:00.006-04:00

All things old are new again and it's the Mongolian wool vest's turn in the spotlight. A fashionable piece of the 70's is everywhere now and looks to be the must have piece of the fall. My earliest memory of its comeback is from Gucci's Fall '06 show. I guess this one had a slow build because it's not until now have I seen so many available for purchase.

Gucci A/W '06

3.1 Phillip Lim A/W '09

Phillip Lim Vest @ www.net-a-porter.com - $750

Vince Mongolian lamb vest - $795

Top Shop two tone Mongolian fur vest - $180

Joie Glimmer faux fur vest - $318

Haute Hippe reversible Mongolian vest - $895

Clarks Desert Cougar

2009-08-11T22:17:00.003-04:00

Clarks maker of the original desert chukka boot now has a new desert style boot, the Desert Cougar. The Desert Cougar has a Chelsea boot style body and Desert Boot style gum sole. If you've never owned a pair of Clarks desert boots it's like walking on air.

Zappos

J+

2009-08-10T21:29:00.004-04:00

Jil Sander formerly of Jil Sander has begun a partnership with Uniqlo, J+. The line will be regularly carried in Uniqlo along side the standard merchandise. The fruits of the collaboration will be debuting this fall. No piece is expect to be above $200.

Pictures Via men.style.com:

Very nice 2 button peak lapel suit in medium gray

Nice parka. Looks to be cotton or nylon and wool mix

men.style.com

Chanel Couture

2009-07-13T10:51:00.007-04:00

Couture

noun

Definition:

1. fashion design: the design and production of fashionable high-quality custom-made clothes

2. high-fashion clothing: high-quality clothing made to order by a fashion designer

[Early 20th century. Via French - Late Latin consutura "sewing together"- Latin suere "sew"]

Encarta dictionary

The highest level of fashion. One can not just simply call themselves a couturier, but must meet the standards as defined by the Fédération française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode (French Federation of Fashion and of Ready-to-Wear of Couturiers and Fashion Designers).

Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.
Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.
Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.

The federation was created in 1973, but developed from an older organization, the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture which was created in 1868. (wikipedia)

Chanel has released a video via New York Magazine showcasing the process of a garment creation from sketch to show.

Shopping Your Closet

2009-06-29T18:15:00.004-04:00

Even fashion obsessed celebrities like Kanye West shops their closet:

Kanye out having brunch with girlfriend, Amber Rose in Dior S/S '06 snake print baseball jacket:

Image from Dior Homme S/S '06 show:

KING of POP RIP

2009-06-25T18:42:00.002-04:00

This entry is dedicated to Michael Jackson who died today. Not only was Michael a music legend, but also a fashion icon. I've been posting about Balmain, which editors have noted has a very MJ flavor. In fact, as I've mentioned before MJ has been photograph several times in Balmain. I refused to believe he was dead up until I wrote this post...

RIP Michael Joseph Jackson August 29, 1958 — June 25, 2009

Pagoda Shoulder II

2009-06-24T15:29:00.002-04:00

Balmain wool Tuxedo jacket from Net-A-Porter baring very Cardin like shoulders.

The jacket is sold out already after being released on the site this week at a price of $3,205. This has been the case with all the high profile (and priced) Balmain pieces released on Net-A-Porter. I guess the truly wealthy will always be wealthy. Celebrities like Gweneth Paltrow, Beyoncé and even Michael Jackson have been seen wearing the latest it brand which makes me wonder, how long before H&M and Zara gets the masses in these aggressive strong shoulders?

6/10 & 6/11

2009-06-11T15:56:00.007-04:00

6/10/09

Suit - Polo Ralph Lauren medium gray wool and mohair hopsack 3/2 roll suit
Pocket square - Brooks Brothers white linen square
Shirt - Obedient Sons white and black check button down shirt
Tie - Brooks Brother Black Fleece charcoal, light gray and black wool cotton blend tie
Tie bar - Kenneth cole silver "rocker" stud bar
Belt - Gap gray, magenta, white ribbon belt belt
Socks - Black and charcoal herringbone w/ purple stripe printed socks
Shoes - Alden black suede cap toe derbies (plaza last)

6/11/09

Suit - Calvin Klein Collection medium gray nail head 2 buton suit
Pocket square - Brooks Brothers white linen square
Shirt - Polo Ralph Lauren white oxford cloth club collar shirt
Tie - Paul Smith leopard print narrow silk and wool tie
Tie bar - Kenneth cole silver "rocker" stud bar
Belt - Club Monaco black and khaki cotton web belt
Socks - Nautica black dress socks
Shoes - Paul Smith black calf chelsea boots

2009-06-09T22:28:00.003-04:00

6-5-09

Jacket - APC black waxed cotton motorcycle jacket
Shirt - Club Monaco white button oxford cloth shirt
Pants - APC overdyed black New Standard jeans
Belt - APC black cotton and suede d ring belt
Socks - Yellow tube socks
Shoes - Puma white snake skin Basket sneakers

6-8-09

Jacket - Jil Sander black minimal 2 button double breasted notch lapel blazer (It has only two buttons, no breast pocket and welt hip pockets)
Shirt - Brooks Brothers white non iron slim fit point collar shirt
Tie - Ralph Lauren Black Label black white repp tie
Tie bar - Kenneth cole silver "rocker" stud bar
Pants - Z Zegna gray/black micro houndstooth wool pants
Belt - Gap gray, magenta, white ribbon belt belt
Socks - Random black socks
Shoes - Jil Sander black calf skin cap toe balmoral

6-9-09

Jacket - Club Monaco black hopstitch cotton and wool sport coat
Pocket square - Vintage maroon, white, red, and pink painterly floral print silk square
Shirt - Brooks Brothers white non iron slim fit point collar shirt
Tie - Steven Alan black with print floral Liberty print cotton tie
Tie bar - Kenneth cole silver "rocker" stud bar
Pants - Custom inverted pleat navy pants (Copy of Armani pants)
Belt - Polo Ralph Lauren black calfskin dress belt
Socks - Random black socks
Shoes - Allen Edmonds black calf skin balmoral wing tips

Sunnies

2009-06-04T14:53:00.007-04:00

Lanvin Way Shiner:

Released during Spring '07, the name and style are a tribute to the iconic Ray-Ban Wayfarer.

Lanvin Homme Spring '07 campaign image:

I'd love to own a pair, but they were hard to come by at the time of release and nearly impossible to obtain now.

6/4/09 Look

2009-06-04T10:11:00.002-04:00

Jacket: Calvin Klein Collection medium gray nailhead 2 button jacket (part of a suit)
Square: Brooks Brothers white linen square
Shirt: Polo Ralph Lauren white/black bengal stripe custom fit semi spread collar shirt
Tie: Ralph Lauren Black Label silk black with white dot pattern
Tie bar: Kenneth Cole "rocker" stud tie clip
Belt: Gap medium gray, magenta, white stripe grosgrain belt
Pants: Uniqlo slim fit non iron khaki cotton pants
Socks: Paul Smith pink with rainbow pattern cotton sock
Shoes: Allen Edmonds Pamona tassel loafers in black calf

Pagoda shoulders

2009-06-04T00:23:00.001-04:00

Pierre Cardin 1979 ad as reprinted in Fantastic Man:

Sport jacket quest

2009-05-29T22:13:00.006-04:00

I subscribe to the belief that one should always be dressed their best. I know that when I put on a great outfit it helps me to feel a million times more confident. As they say, "Clothes make the (wo)man". Or "You can only make a first impression once". I could continue with the maxims, but I'm sure the message has been received. Being dressed my best and most confident means being attired in tailored clothing. This love for the tailored was sowed in me at an early age, long before I had any say in my clothing choices. Comparing pictures of myself as a youth to what I wear now I find that things I gravitate towards are fundamentally.

My basic look consist of the typical tailored wardrobe, suits, sport jackets, shirts, ties and leather soles shoes. Currently the backbone of my wardrobe is comprised of 4 suits and and 4 sport jackets. Being the lover of clothes I am, this obviously isn't enough. I've read of men who own well over 50 suits (search Styleforum if you're in disbelief). What I've discovered on my sartorial journey is that the sport jacket wardrobe is definitely the way to go. You can pair your jackets with various trousers, shirt and tie combos to create a plethora of looks. This brings me to my current dilemma.

Being the particular quality obsessed individual I am, I have found it hard to find sport coats that, fit my almost entirely monochromatic look, have the actual fit I'm looking for and are within my price point. Enter Mr. Ned NY tailor.

I first heard of Mr. Ned while browsing the message board of all that is sartorial, Styleforum. I had completely forgot about them until I decided to search for bespoke/custom suiting prices in a moment of frustrations and curiosity. I have now resolved to avoid all suiting purchases from this moment on until the Fall as I plan on having my first sport jacket done as a birthday gift to myself. I am thinking something along the lines of this Paul Stuart jacket, but possibly single button and minus the inverted box pleat in the patch pockets:

I'd also like to have some slim double pleat and/or single pleat trousers in the same vein as Mafoofan or Stefano Pilati done up:

Pagoda shoulder

2009-05-27T22:52:00.007-04:00

Looks like the current beloved shoulder of the fashion set has finally been reproduced for those on a budget.

Gwyneth Paltrow in Balmain tuxedo jacket:

Tuxedo jacket $3,440

Marley jacket:

Marley peak lapel double knit jacket $345 @ Intermix

Let's talk shoes and fashion philosophy

2009-05-26T23:42:00.005-04:00

During one of my random internet window shopping moments I came across the Pour La Victoire studded sandal at Urban Outfitters. I'm not really familiar with the brand, but it appears to be a bit of an upscale Steve Madden. Basically they take "inspiration" from other high profile brands.

PLV by Pour La Victorie Studded Sandal @ Urban Outfitters

The sandal's price at Urban is $178. I then came across the same sandal at Intermix with quite a different price, $275. That's nearly a $100 difference!?

Studded Flat Sandals - Pour La Victorie

I'm not familiar with the pricing of Intermix's items, but that seems like quite a mark up from what the wholesale probably is.

This got me to snooping around for some more Pour La Victorie swag. And then I came across this...
Pour La Victorie "Ella" sandal

This sandal is a poor (wo)mans Christian Louboutin Adona (Phillip Lim special). The shoe was featured in Lim's S/S 09 show.

Those who know me know my love for Phillip Lim in general, these sandals and their sister pump version, Dillian.

I personally think that one would be doing a great disservice to oneself if they chose the the PLV version of these shoes. For starters the PLV looks like it's ruffle could use a little Cialis. But it's easy when comparing the prices to expect for many to consider the PLV to be an acceptable surrogate. Fashion is often seen as an empty indulgence for the shallow. Just ask a regular person on the street what they think about spending 1.3k on a pair of shoes. Now ask a few people how they feel about buying a plasma TV, home theater system or a wonderful new couch. To look at it what may be more equal terms consider the regard and converted status famous/historical artisnal furniture has amongst many. What makes this shoe different than owning a certified Barcelona chair? Even if the individuals surveyed were not familiar with the chair a brief mention of it's prestige in the world of furniture and design should bring them around. FYI the chrome version starts at $4,328 and the stainless steel starts at $6,609.

When your consider what the fundamental functions of these two items are it seems hard to justify spending anything more than the prices of Payless and Ikea. However, these two items are not given the same respect. As stated before, you'll probably be able to more easily justify the chair purchase than the shoe purchase. Many find it quite easy to drop big money on furniture and appliances, but just can't justify spending more than $50 on a pair of shoes or shirt. I find this hard to understand for several reasons.

First, when you buy those expensive appliances, be it a plasma TV or PS3, there's a performance half life. Technology is constantly upgrading and the top of the line advanced item you own now will be a technological dinosaur the next year. OK, that may be an exaggeration, but I'm sure you've experienced something like this to some degree. The item may function well, but you'll find yourself in need of something better just because your product seems so inferior or that the item in question is now obsolete, e.g. Playstation 2. Paying premium for electronics and appliances is accepted because the cost of creation and manufacture of new technologies is expensive. As things become easier to produce cost decline. In the end your item will almost always see a sharp depreciation in value. Try selling a Zach Morris style cellphone and see how much people are willing to spend.

In regards to those who view artisanal furniture as somehow superior to a high fashion piece, I don't agree (obviously). The argument that the fashion pieces will experience atrophy through regular use and thus spending more than minimum on it is only half valid. Yes, buttons fall off, shoes scuff, and soles wear out. Though when purchasing items of high quality it is possible to restore said item. Using a shoe for example (since this is what sparked this discussion), an individual may have the uppers refinished or the actual sole of the shoe replaced. Furniture is not without it's own atrophic qualities; reupholstery anyone?

Thus, the appeal of these designer furniture pieces is the fact that they are designed. They are a work of art. This is something that the Adona and Barcelona share. They're form is extraordinary when compared to items which share their same function. There is a beauty of form which these items posses. You could just tie strings around wood plank and strap them to your feet and get the same functionality of the Adona. Conversely, you could also sit on a milk crate to accomplish the function of the Barcelona. But would you really want to invite people over to sit on milk crates in your apartment and annotate in your will which grand child gets said crates when you're gone? When you're looking to finish off an outfit and add the confidence with the perfect finishing touch are you going to grab your rope and planks? You're daughter will just be dying for the moment she's your identical foot size so she can take those beautiful planks out a wild night.

Genesis

2009-05-26T21:31:00.003-04:00

For those who know me I'm known to be an individual of many interest. It may be the material; I'm always keeping my eye out for those great it pieces. Or it may be something cerebral. On many occasion I've been told that I should share my words to the world at large. Without going on any further (and spiraling into futher pretense) I present to you mutable pursuits. A digital home to my words and thoughts.