Friday, May 29, 2009

Sport jacket quest

I subscribe to the belief that one should always be dressed their best. I know that when I put on a great outfit it helps me to feel a million times more confident. As they say, "Clothes make the (wo)man". Or "You can only make a first impression once". I could continue with the maxims, but I'm sure the message has been received. Being dressed my best and most confident means being attired in tailored clothing. This love for the tailored was sowed in me at an early age, long before I had any say in my clothing choices. Comparing pictures of myself as a youth to what I wear now I find that things I gravitate towards are fundamentally.

My basic look consist of the typical tailored wardrobe, suits, sport jackets, shirts, ties and leather soles shoes. Currently the backbone of my wardrobe is comprised of 4 suits and and 4 sport jackets. Being the lover of clothes I am, this obviously isn't enough. I've read of men who own well over 50 suits (search Styleforum if you're in disbelief). What I've discovered on my sartorial journey is that the sport jacket wardrobe is definitely the way to go. You can pair your jackets with various trousers, shirt and tie combos to create a plethora of looks. This brings me to my current dilemma.

Being the particular quality obsessed individual I am, I have found it hard to find sport coats that, fit my almost entirely monochromatic look, have the actual fit I'm looking for and are within my price point. Enter Mr. Ned NY tailor.

I first heard of Mr. Ned while browsing the message board of all that is sartorial, Styleforum. I had completely forgot about them until I decided to search for bespoke/custom suiting prices in a moment of frustrations and curiosity. I have now resolved to avoid all suiting purchases from this moment on until the Fall as I plan on having my first sport jacket done as a birthday gift to myself. I am thinking something along the lines of this Paul Stuart jacket, but possibly single button and minus the inverted box pleat in the patch pockets:




I'd also like to have some slim double pleat and/or single pleat trousers in the same vein as Mafoofan or Stefano Pilati done up:


Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Pagoda shoulder

Looks like the current beloved shoulder of the fashion set has finally been reproduced for those on a budget.

Gwyneth Paltrow in Balmain tuxedo jacket:

Tuxedo jacket $3,440

Marley jacket:

Marley peak lapel double knit jacket $345 @ Intermix

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Let's talk shoes and fashion philosophy

During one of my random internet window shopping moments I came across the Pour La Victoire studded sandal at Urban Outfitters. I'm not really familiar with the brand, but it appears to be a bit of an upscale Steve Madden. Basically they take "inspiration" from other high profile brands.

PLV by Pour La Victorie Studded Sandal @ Urban Outfitters

The sandal's price at Urban is $178. I then came across the same sandal at Intermix with quite a different price, $275. That's nearly a $100 difference!?

Studded Flat Sandals - Pour La Victorie

I'm not familiar with the pricing of Intermix's items, but that seems like quite a mark up from what the wholesale probably is.

This got me to snooping around for some more Pour La Victorie swag. And then I came across this...
Pour La Victorie "Ella" sandal

This sandal is a poor (wo)mans Christian Louboutin Adona (Phillip Lim special). The shoe was featured in Lim's S/S 09 show.



Those who know me know my love for Phillip Lim in general, these sandals and their sister pump version, Dillian.

I personally think that one would be doing a great disservice to oneself if they chose the the PLV version of these shoes. For starters the PLV looks like it's ruffle could use a little Cialis. But it's easy when comparing the prices to expect for many to consider the PLV to be an acceptable surrogate. Fashion is often seen as an empty indulgence for the shallow. Just ask a regular person on the street what they think about spending 1.3k on a pair of shoes. Now ask a few people how they feel about buying a plasma TV, home theater system or a wonderful new couch. To look at it what may be more equal terms consider the regard and converted status famous/historical artisnal furniture has amongst many. What makes this shoe different than owning a certified Barcelona chair? Even if the individuals surveyed were not familiar with the chair a brief mention of it's prestige in the world of furniture and design should bring them around. FYI the chrome version starts at $4,328 and the stainless steel starts at $6,609.

When your consider what the fundamental functions of these two items are it seems hard to justify spending anything more than the prices of Payless and Ikea. However, these two items are not given the same respect. As stated before, you'll probably be able to more easily justify the chair purchase than the shoe purchase. Many find it quite easy to drop big money on furniture and appliances, but just can't justify spending more than $50 on a pair of shoes or shirt. I find this hard to understand for several reasons.

First, when you buy those expensive appliances, be it a plasma TV or PS3, there's a performance half life. Technology is constantly upgrading and the top of the line advanced item you own now will be a technological dinosaur the next year. OK, that may be an exaggeration, but I'm sure you've experienced something like this to some degree. The item may function well, but you'll find yourself in need of something better just because your product seems so inferior or that the item in question is now obsolete, e.g. Playstation 2. Paying premium for electronics and appliances is accepted because the cost of creation and manufacture of new technologies is expensive. As things become easier to produce cost decline. In the end your item will almost always see a sharp depreciation in value. Try selling a Zach Morris style cellphone and see how much people are willing to spend.

In regards to those who view artisanal furniture as somehow superior to a high fashion piece, I don't agree (obviously). The argument that the fashion pieces will experience atrophy through regular use and thus spending more than minimum on it is only half valid. Yes, buttons fall off, shoes scuff, and soles wear out. Though when purchasing items of high quality it is possible to restore said item. Using a shoe for example (since this is what sparked this discussion), an individual may have the uppers refinished or the actual sole of the shoe replaced. Furniture is not without it's own atrophic qualities; reupholstery anyone?

Thus, the appeal of these designer furniture pieces is the fact that they are designed. They are a work of art. This is something that the Adona and Barcelona share. They're form is extraordinary when compared to items which share their same function. There is a beauty of form which these items posses. You could just tie strings around wood plank and strap them to your feet and get the same functionality of the Adona. Conversely, you could also sit on a milk crate to accomplish the function of the Barcelona. But would you really want to invite people over to sit on milk crates in your apartment and annotate in your will which grand child gets said crates when you're gone? When you're looking to finish off an outfit and add the confidence with the perfect finishing touch are you going to grab your rope and planks? You're daughter will just be dying for the moment she's your identical foot size so she can take those beautiful planks out a wild night.

Genesis

For those who know me I'm known to be an individual of many interest. It may be the material; I'm always keeping my eye out for those great it pieces. Or it may be something cerebral. On many occasion I've been told that I should share my words to the world at large. Without going on any further (and spiraling into futher pretense) I present to you mutable pursuits. A digital home to my words and thoughts.